March 16, 2013

I'm Off!

Tomorrow morning we're leaving for Annapurna! It's one of the most beautiful places in the world and we get to go! We'll be flying up the deepest river valley in the world (only a 25 min plane ride) and we're going to trek for 2 days and stay in small villages along the way and then we'll have a homestay in Larjung for a week with new families and a new schedule. I'll have no internet and no phone service. So I'll be back in two weeks with (hopefully) lots of photos and stories!

Leaves (Nagarjun Community Forest, Nepal)
Here's a picture from a hike Mel, Deb, Kelsey and I went on last weekend. It was SOOO hard. It was just stairs straight uphill made of rock and dirt. It was beautiful though how the trees covered the path so we were protected from the strong sun. We hiked for about 3 hours and then made it to this open clearing where we could look out onto the valley. It was breathtaking and the whole time I was amazed how much it felt like being home and hiking in the Santa Cruz mountains. If only there was a view of the ocean! We snacked on pretzel sticks (yes, we found those here) bananas, and granola bars and then made our way down for a grueling knee workout downhill. It was so nice to get out of the city and just breathe dust-free air and to hear leaves rustling. 

The Hike- Me, Mel, Deb, and Kelsey (Nagarjun, Nepal)

March 13, 2013

FOOD.

I can’t live without food. I’m not trying to be dramatic here or state the obvious. I just love food, and let me tell you, there are some delectably scrumptious foods in Nepal. And there are also some not-so-scrumptious foods here too- just like any place, I’m sure.

This is a short post about F.O.O.D. (cause, let’s be honest, you want to know what I’m eating!)

Breakfast/ khaja- meaning “snack” as opposed to khaanaa- meaning “food/meal” used to describe lunch/dinner
My two favorites are:
#1             1 hard boiled egg
                        1 cup of dudh chiyaa (milk tea)
                        1 omelet (with tomatoes, coriander, and onion)
#2            1 small bowl of alooah (I describe it like ‘Nepali carrot cake porridge’ made of gram flour, sugar, carrots, cinnamon, and water)
            1 cup of kaagati chiyaa (lemon tea)

My Favorite Breakfast- Omelet and Lemon Chiyaa
Lunch/ khaanaa- made by Dorjedaai and Dondaai at school
Food at school is ALWAYS, I repeat ALWAYS delicious. Everything is homemade, different, and fills us up. It’s torture sometimes sitting in class having to smell the sweet fragrance of caramelizing onions or flaky and buttery quiche baking in the oven.
Lunch highlights:
-       Tacos!
-       Spinach and onion quiche
-       Roasted chicken, garlic broccoli, and mashed potatoes with gravy (and apple pie for dessert!)
-       Salad (so simple yet hits the spot every time since raw veggies aren’t that common)
-       Pizza
-       Honey yogurt

Dinner/ khaanaa- made by my aamaa (sometimes my bahini, Pragya, helps too)
DAALBHAAT. Daal bhaat. daal bhaat. daal bhaat. daal bhaat. daal bhaat. daal. bhaat.
Daal- lentils
Bhaat- rice
While we don’t just eat rice and lentils alone, essentially every dinner is a heap of steamy rice with a little bowl of stewed lentils (that resembles a soup more than lentils I have in the U.S.) Sides with daalbhaat are typically:
-       cauliflower & potatoes
-       tomatoes &potatoes
-       mushrooms & potatoes
-       peas & mushrooms
In addition, my aamaa pounds out (with mortar and pestle) some type of achaar- “pickle” every meal that you grab a pinch of each bite to make it tangy or spicy. Sometimes it’s tomato achaar that tastes just like salsa and other times it’s radish and onion that’s quite bitter and smelly (not my fave).
The secret to eating daalbhaat however, is not what you eat with it, but what you eat it with:
            Your hands.
Yes, that’s right. My dreams have come true and I am not only told to eat with my hands, but I’m encouraged to play with my food. This is how it works: You’ve got 3 distinct piles on your plate (rice, veggies, and pickle sauce) with a small bowl of lentils on the side. The strategy is to have an open space on the plate where you do your mixing. You grab a little rice, a little veggie, and a dab of achaar and then pour a small amount of daal on top and then proceed to mix it together. Yes, with your hands. Once it’s all incorporated, you grab a bite-sized lump in your fingers and shovel it into your mouth with the aid of your thumb. I’ll have to teach everyone when I get home, but it’s pretty fun, quite effective, and just makes sense!

Khaja- my favorite snacks
-       nariwaal laagdu (coconut balls that taste similar to macaroons)
-       biscuits (crackers)
-       suntala- “oranges”
-       peanut butter
-       mango juice
-       Snyder’s honey mustard pretzel pieces (we found them at the super market and every one of us grabs so many we raid the shelf as if the world is about to end)
-       Strawberry popsicle
My Third Favorite Breakfast- Guliyo Roti
Aerial Shot of MiTho breakfast =)
 “Bad Food” List
These are some foods that I’ve tried and just can’t accept:
-       mango achaar- I’m sorry but mangos (my favorite fruit in the world) simply should not be pickled
-       cornflakes and milk- it’s soggy, hot, thick, and creamy (and I don’t do milk)
-       Chocopie- a Korean version of a Hostess product (horrible marshmallow “cookie”)
-       Daal bhaat- okay, I know I just said it’s fun to eat, but eating the same thing can get a wee bit tiring and so it comforts me adding it to the bad list sometimes, but for the most part it's ekdam miTho (very tasty)

My birthday cake
I’m realizing I promised this would be a short post about food. This isn’t short. Who was I kidding?

March 07, 2013

Chitwan

It’s been a week and a half since we got back from our trip a 6 hour drive away from Kathmandu. We were in Chitwan National Park and stayed at Jungle Tourist Camp for meals and Nepali language class. Chitwan was the San Diego equivalent of Nepal with its tourist attractions, exotic animals, warm weather, and “beaches” (these were along the river and no one was in a bathing suit tanning, but there was sand and a beautiful sunset each night nonetheless).

Highlights of the trip:
-       Bees! We learned about bee farming and how intensive (or not intensive depending upon the season) honey harvesting is. Gopi, “the bee guy” chooses to harvest honey as a hobby and for an alternative source of income. We tasted 3 types of honey: one was rich, runny, and sweet just like honey at home, BUT BETTER! Another looked like frosting and TASTED like frosting too. It is spreadable, sweet, and mild. The last honey we tried was actually mixed with mustard seed and had a bright yellow color to it and a tangy sugary taste. I ended up buying the second frosting-like one because it was unlike any honey I’d had before and it seemed to be the most versatile. Hopefully I’ll have saved it to share when I come home!
Gopi "The Bee Guy" (Sauraha, Nepal)
 Tharu culture! Tharu people are just one of the indigenous groups of Nepal and we got to tour their cultural museum a few villages over from ours. They have deep traditions in fishing, dancing, and tattooing (for women). We talked with a few people in the Tharu village and they expressed their concern for their culture’s wellbeing, as the government of Nepal does not seem to respect their history, traditions, and livelihoods. My favorite part of walking through the village was seeing all the handprints decorating the houses. These prints are meant to bring good luck and prosperous crops to the family.
Tharu Hands (Tharu Village, Nepal)
-       Bikes!  Chitwan has quite a lot of landmass, but the places we traveled to were manageable by bike. It was so fun seeing all of us hop onto these rickety old bikes with fixed gears, baskets, and kick stands and navigate dusty and uneven roads. We sang songs from The Sound of Music and kept saying we felt like the Von Trap children biking free and happy.
Bike (Sauraha, Nepal)

 Elephants! Called haati in Nepali, elephants were everywhere we went. They’re just amazing creatures. Not only are they the largest land mammal alive today, but they’re also arguably one of the smartest (an elephant’s memory is flawless and they can remember a route or recognize a face after seeing it just once). Four of us climbed atop an elephant and squeezed our legs out of a small wooden ‘frame’ that we sat in. While it wasn’t the most comfortable position, I could stretch my feet down and rest them on the elephant’s skin and feel the rough yet strong animal below me. If only I could travel by elephant everywhere I went. 
Me and Mel with Ellie (Sauraha, Nepal)
 Elephant Ride (Sauraha, Nepal)
Kelsey, Emma, Mel, and Gyan on the Elephant (Sauraha, Nepal)
River (Sauraha, Nepal) 
In terms of school, our lectures vary, but tend to focus on themes of religion, development, research strategies, and social change in Nepal. We’re currently developing our ISP (Independent Study Projects)  ideas for the last month we’ll be here. I’m currently thinking about analyzing the Peace Corps volunteer in the Nepali context. (I figure I love volunteering, Nepal and people so why not see how effective this program is?)

We’re still learning Nepali every morning and though our teachers express frustration at how slow we’re learning, everyone else we talk with (shop keepers, our family members, etc.) is impressed. We can bargain, take a taxi (give directions), describe what we’d like to buy/eat/do, learn about another person’s traits, and talk about our daily schedules. I’m sure we know more, but I’m definitely not fluent yet.

pheri bheTaula! (see you again!)
Camel by the Beach (Sauraha, Nepal)
The River (Sauraha, Nepal)

February 28, 2013

SIT Staff


Here’s a chance for you to get to know some of the people I’m living and learning with!
Our program really has some of the kindest, most patient, and funniest staff and I feel so lucky to be with them.

Dondaai– cook and entertainer (not a real title but he deserves it), living proof that being funny is directly proportional to your age aka he always makes us laugh and he’s like a loving uncle

Dorjedaai- head cook and a man of few words, yet so cool he can get away with not speaking and you always know what he’s thinking (most likely “be patient, you’ll get to eat it soon”)

Hemdaai- guard and mail keeper, always has a smile on his face and lives in the guard house with Singe

Pramiladidi- housekeeper and giver of compliments, she’s your favorite big sister and I love seeing her smile through the curtain blocking off our classroom from the kitchen

Gyandaai- finance and technology go-to guy, it’s a running joke between us that the only thing I know how to ask him is tapaailaai _____ manparchha? “do you like _____?”. All the language teachers make fun of me for it, but I bet they don’t know that he doesn’t like cats and that his favorite fruits are mangos.

Gopaldaai- gardener, Singe Whisperer, and cool glasses wearer, I promise these glasses are the smallest things you’ve ever seen (in his case, the size of his glasses is inversely proportional to his wisdom). Singe is in love with him and will Namaste with him (the dog gets on his hind legs and puts his front paws together like palms- so cute).

Singe- guard dog and companion, we’re typically jealous of his standard behavior of lying on the porch showing his belly until someone rubs him. He’s figured out that I’m allergic to him, so every morning when he runs to greet me, rather than putting his paws on me, we walk along side each other. When I’m sitting on the ground, he’ll come up and put his face close to mine without touching it while holding eye contact and then he’ll bob his head once and sit as if to say “hi friend! Nice to see you” I like to think I’ve trained him well, but I think he’s just a smart doggie.

Each* can be found in their respective places around the house/grounds but all of them (at least once a day) like to go outside to sit and read the daily paper. During lecture, I often prefer a seat with my back to the window as the sun keeps me warm and alert. However, I sometimes trade that warm Nepali sun in favor of the opportunity to look out the window and observe everyone flipping through the paper- some wearing reading glasses, others drinking chiyaa (tea) and of course, everyone petting Singe- because that very act reveals each of their mannerisms so well. Essentially, they’re all so sweet, quite patient, and so funny. They hear us butchering their language horribly, yet they smile and laugh and encourage us still.
*Singe doesn’t read the paper. Though that’d be a pretty entertaining distraction from class.
 

Our language instructors and lead lecturer are just as amazing (yet I worship them slightly more because they have to put up with us as students). Mina, Chandra, and Sanjib. They each have a great sense of humor and it’s obvious they really care about us and want us to learn and retain as much as we can in such little time. It’s so encouraging and refreshing because they give us so much time and freedom to discover things on our own and to ask the questions that might seem a little funky (but hey, we’re Americans).

Minaji- language teacher, cool big sister, and trickster, she manages to pull off pigtails, pink clips, skinny jeans, a leather jacket, and a nose ring without looking like a mom that tries too hard to be hip or young. I swear she’s actually 25…

Chandraji- language teacher and coolest dresser, he always looks stylish and rolls in on his motorcycle. AND his son (4) has crazy hair just like him (which makes him a cool dad)

Sanjibji- language teacher and jokester, while all of the teachers make jokes, it’s possible Sanjib’s are the best delivered and most accurate, thus, create the most laughter. Plus, he’s got orange hair and a giant grin on his face all the time and is always so sweet.

BASICALLY, never question the coolness of our language teachers. They are all so patient (I can’t emphasize that enough) and we each desire to be them when we “grow up”.

Anilji is our lead lecturer and reminds me of an all-knowing Lawrence Fishburne a’la Matrix (only Nepali). He has such an effective way of lecturing that every lesson becomes a story. He’s so full of facts, quotes, and meaningful anecdotes that I’m not so sure how he doesn’t explode from being so knowledgeable. AND he’s a Jack of all Trades: he’s involved in numerous non-profits, lectures with us, with Tribhuvan University, is a board member on virtually every committee there is in Nepal, and is in charge of the development of the Great Himalayan Trail. Not to mention, he travels to the U.S. and other Western countries to lecture and learn when he can squeeze that in. Unfortunately, since he’s so highly esteemed and in such high demand, we are only graced with his presence about once or twice a week. If only I knew half as much as he does.

**No one’s name actually ends in daai, didi, or ji, those are ways of identifying people (daai- big brother) (didi- big sister) (ji- respect)

February 18, 2013

My House




Everyone has been asking about what my house and family looks like. While I have yet to awkwardly ask my family if I can take pictures of them, I thought I'd share what my house looks like. I'm headed to Chitwan for a week on a mini excursion! Will have tons of pictures when I come back. Hopefully of elephants, rhinos, and tigers. Oh my!

Missing home. =)